The Dyckman Farmhouse – a reminder of 18th century rural Manhattan

At the northern tip of Manhattan you’ll find the neighbourhood of Inwood. Here, as you stand on Broadway outside the Inwood-207th St A Express subway station you’re over eight miles from the world-famous Theater District and surrounded by the fast food joints, nail and hair salons, bodegas, supermarkets and residential blocks of urban development.

There’s little to suggest that until the late 19th and early 20th centuries this was an area of farming communities and rural landscapes. These were swept away by the rapid urban development that accompanied the arrival of the Interborough Rapid Transit (IRT) subway line extension.

However, a reminder of this 18th century Manhattan can be found amid Inwood’s urban landscape at the Dyckman Farmhouse, now the Dyckman Farmhouse Museum.

I first visited the Museum in February 2014 with deep snow on the ground.  Walking west from the subway station there was little to suggest the Museum’s presence until I came across a scene totally out of place with its urban setting.  Once the centre of a 250 acre (120 ha) farm whose meadows reached to the Harlem River, the house is set back from, and above, the northern sidewalk on a half-acre (0.2 ha) plot of land, giving a feeling of a disconnect from its surrounds – both in space and time.

Dyckman Farmhouse viewed from south-west corner
Dyckman Farmhouse viewed from the west.

The farmhouse was built on the site around 1784 and has the overhanging eaves and gambrel roof of the Dutch Colonial style. That it survived was down to Mary Alice Dyckman Dean and Fannie Fredericka Dyckman Welch, daughters of the last Dyckman child to grow up in the house. They purchased the house in 1915 to safeguard it against the urban development going on around it and with their husbands, curator Bashford Dean and architect Alexander McMillian Welch, restored and furnished it to what they believed was its earliest appearance. In the process the oldest features of the house were retained where possible, while later additions were demolished. The house was furnished using objects provided by friends and family,  and in 1916 when the restoration was complete, the house and grounds were donated to the City of New York as a museum of early American life.

Today the Museum represents all the layers of the farmhouse’s history: the original modest 18th century structure, 19th century room modernisations such as staircases, and the early 20th century alterations for museum use. Current knowledge has ensured that restorations are as historically accurate as possible, including a large period parlour on the first floor and Winter Kitchen in the cellar.  A Relic Room created during the 1915 – 16 alterations exhibits objects unearthed in digs prior to urban development that have helped inform the restorations’ accuracy.

Access to the cellar is down a narrow staircase (low light and headroom) that has been built around an exposed slab of Inwood marble too big to be excavated. The slab’s surface bears a carving of an ancient game known as ‘Nine Man Morris’; for an image and more information see the January 11 post on the Museum’s Facebook page.

On the second floor you can see a large bedroom that is being restored to its 1916 condition, and a room set up as a study from the same period.

When I dropped into the Museum last week there was a very different feel about the garden, which provides a pleasing counter to the urban landscape, compared to my February visit. The snow had disappeared and the seating area to the east of the house was now an inviting area to relax. It was also easier to appreciate the impressive trees, some of which date back to the original planting of the garden around 1916. Thankfully both the bigger trees and the farmhouse survived the travails of Hurricane Sandy in October 2012, even though the house was hit by falling tree limbs.

Dyckman farmhouse, early February 2014 – looking from the north-east

In the garden you’ll also see the reconstruction of a smokehouse and a military hut, similar to those used by the British during the Revolutionary War when they camped on the farm.

Smokehouse and north end of Summer Kitchen - stone back of bread oven protudes from the clapboard.
Smokehouse in foreground. Summer Kitchen (closed to public) in background – note the stone back of a bread oven protruding from the wall.

Over the next few months plants including daffodils, bleeding heart, foxglove and dogwood will bloom with the garden peaking by about the end of May. I’m going to make time to see the changing displays; when the various trees are fully-leaved in summer it will be easy to forget the plot, which feels bigger than you’d expect, is surrounded by buildings on three sides.

Dyckman farmhouse - garden seating - cropped and resized 10pc

Looking around the Museum and garden is unlikely to take more than an hour, though you may spend longer relaxing in the garden. If your journey to Inwood is a long one (it takes me about an hour and a quarter from Astoria, Queens by public transport) it may be worth combining your visit with a walk through Inwood Hill Park or a trip to the Cloisters museum and gardens. Both are nearby and well worth visiting (see post on Inwood Hill Park).

I will be posting on the Cloisters museum and gardens soon but essentially it is a branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art devoted to the art and architecture of medieval Europe. Its 20th  century buildings and cloistered gardens are located in Fort Tryon Park, offering great views of the Palisades, a line of steep cliffs along the west side of the Hudson River.

Having grown up in the UK I’m used to old buildings and artefacts. As a kid my family would visit Waltham Abbey, 10 miles from where I grew up and dating back to the early 12th century. However, I still think an afternoon at the Cloisters with its great collections, the fine buildings in which they are housed, and a relaxed atmosphere created by the cloistered gardens makes for an experience to remember.

 

17th century Native American caves still providing shelter

At the northern tip of Manhattan Island you’ll find Inwood Hill Park, a living piece of old New York. Unlike other Manhattan parks it is a largely natural landscape that hasn’t been altered too much by the wars and development that followed the arrival of European colonists in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The Park’s human history dates back to Pre-Columbian times (before  significant European influences). Local Native Americans (the Lenape) inhabited the area through the 17th century, using the Hudson (to the west) and Harlem Rivers (to the north and east) as food sources. There is historical evidence of a main encampment along the Park’s eastern edge, while  discoveries of historical artefacts and campfire remains suggest natural rock overhangs, the  ‘Native American Caves’ (the caves),  provided shelter and temporary living quarters.

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Henry Hudson Bridge across the Harlem River at the northeast of Inwood Hill Park.

I set off to explore the caves on a toe-numbingly cold day. They are a pretty easy 0.7 miles (1.1 km) walk from the A (8 Avenue Express) Inwood-207 Street subway station, though the last little way up to them is a little steeper in places. Click here for walking route.

The Park’s terrain is impressive with giant rock ridges, a valley, rock overhangs and potholes. It was largely shaped by the Wisconsin ice sheet, the most recent southward advance of ice in the last Ice Age, which reached New York roughly 50,000 years ago.

Inwood Hill Park Outcrop - 12pc
Cliff in Inwood Hill Park

The Shorakkopoch Rock marks the site of the tulip tree under which Peter Minuit, Director General of New Netherland (17th-century colonial province of the Dutch Republic on the East Coast of North America), allegedly ‘purchased’ Manhattan from a band of Native Americans in 1626 for the Dutch West India Company for a shipment of goods worth 60 guilders. Arriving at the Rock it’s a short walk to the caves. The image below gives an idea of what the area looks like –  at least in snow!

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Area of ‘Native American Caves’ in Inwood Hill Park – seen from near Shorakkopoch Rock

Tramping uphill through knee-deep snow I heard the faint sound of a radio as I neared the caves.  After a slight double-take I saw that the nearest habitable space providing good shelter was occupied; rough material hangings covered part of the entrance and through the gap I could see a pair of feet tapping along to the music. Further uphill the next space providing shelter from the elements was also occupied and the slope steepened making further exploration risky in the conditions. Not wanting to disturb the occupants I retraced my steps.

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Amongst the caves, with musical accompaniment

Though I wasn’t able to explore the caves area properly it was a beautifully bright day and I spent  more time walking through the Park. I’ll definitely visit again to further checkout the caves and look for other geological features such as glacial potholes.

Leaving the Park I found the Indian Road  Café, where I had a very tasty breakfast (Smoked Salmon Scrambled Eggs for $12). My latte was fairly average, but I’m fussy; I’d certainly use the café again.

That evening, warm at home,  I reflected on  how cold it had been up at Inwood  and that I could treat myself to breakfast and a hot drink while people are sleeping rough in such brutal weather conditions. It brought home why there are such concerns about growing inequality in New York City;  a combination of jobs that don’t pay “living wages” and a lack of “affordable housing” has seen homeless figures  rise to the highest since the Great Depression (1929 – 39).

In 2013 the total number of homeless people in municipal shelters in 2013 was 53,270. The NYC Department of Homeless Services (DHS) estimated that in 2013 a further 3,180 homeless people were unsheltered, i.e. sleeping in parks, subways, and other public spaces; this figure was based on the DHS annual Homeless Outreach Population Estimate (HOPE) survey, which takes place on a SINGLE winter night (27 January in 2014). The Coalition for the Homeless considers  the DHS figure to be an underestimate because the survey is unlikely to log those sleeping in out of the way places, such as those I came across and in the remoter parts of the subway.

It’s dangerous living rough especially in this winter’s brutal weather. Unfortunately, for some, municipal shelters aren’t necessarily a better option. Thinking back to earlier in the day and those feet tapping along to the music I hope that shelter sees its occupant safely through the winter.

 

A burst of colour in the gloom

I’ve been visiting Central Park for three years now and continue to be blown away by the varieties and striking colours of the birds you encounter.  On a dull day they can really light up a scene.

Adult Male Baltimore Oriole at Feeders. You're right this bird is not on an orange. Deborah Allen kindly provided me with this image. Her other images can be accessed at: http://www.agpix.com/results.php?agid=DeAl12 Also check out the weekend Central Park birding walks she and Dr. Robert DeCandido lead at: http://www.birdingbob.com/
Adult Male Baltimore Oriole at Feeders, Evodia Field, The Ramble, Central Park.*

I visited the Park on a very soggy and dull morning, a few weeks back in between snowfalls   As I entered at 5th Avenue and East 61st St.  mist hugged the ground creating an ethereal atmosphere.

South end of Park looking north toward Central Park Zoo.
South end of Park looking north toward Central Park Zoo.

Atmospheric views continued as I made my way along the east side of the ice-covered Lake (weather permitting you can hire rowboats from April through November) toward the Loeb Boathouse restaurant/café where I was meeting friends for birding.

Looking north to The Angel of the Waters, Bethesda Fountain, Bethesda Terrace, Central Park
Looking north across the Lake to the Loeb Boathouse.
Looking north across the Lake to the Loeb Boathouse.

The  walk itself was a little underwhelming until Evodia Field in the Ramble. Birders refer to this area simply as “the feeders” since during the worst of winter two stalwart volunteers, Lee and Neil, provide the birds with tasty delights such as nuts, peanut butter, suet, coconuts and oranges.

Orange halves hanging from branches were fluorescent in the gloom. Then something even brighter alighted on them – a male Baltimore Oriole (a bird not a baseballer!).  The male and a female have been hanging out in the Park, months after the Fall when they would normally migrate south. I’d encountered them before but not at the  feeders and this was by far my best view. Hopefully, with Neil and Lee’s efforts they’ll see the winter out.

A great way to end the walk. Then it was a short stroll  south-east to the Boathouse, where we warmed up next to the fire in the Express Cafe and indulged in HOT beverages and – my particular favourite – modestly-priced, steaming hot, tasty and filling vegetarian chili.

*Deb Allen kindly provided the image of the male Baltimore Oriole. Though its feeding on a peanut butter-covered coconut it gives a good idea of how bright these birds are. Access Deb’s more recent and brighter image of a maleall her images; and the Central Park birding walks she and Dr. Robert (“Birding Bob”) DeCandido lead.

Watch Bald Eagles hitching rides on ice floes from Manhattan

The harsh New York winter has seen ice floes on the Hudson River as far south as New York City (NYC). Bald eagles take advantage of the floes moving up- and downstream according to the tides*. Hitching a ride saves them expending energy flying looking for food.

Eagle watch – looking south from the north-west tip of Manhattan to the George Washington Bridge

This provides great opportunities for eagle spotting and a couple of weeks ago I travelled upstate from NYC with friends to see these spectacular birds.  Our northernmost stop was just north of the Indian Point nuclear facility. Bizarrely this ageing facility is located only 30 miles north of the Bronx when NYC is the most populated city and most densely populated major city in the US!

The architecturally beautiful Indian Point nuclear energy facility
The architecturally exquisite Indian Point nuclear facility

Eagles depend on open water for finding fish. If the river is extensively frozen and open channels are a long way from shore it may be difficult to catch good views. We were lucky in that the weather had warmed a bit (it didn’t feel like it as we stood in a biting wind!) and there were areas of open water relatively close to shore.  We saw 30 plus eagles (mature and juvenile) on and flying above the ice, with some great closeup views.

Driving south we stopped at a few favoured locations but the frigid temperatures saw us spend less and less time out of the car. We still saw over 50 birds in total. Without any  hi-tech photographic equipment we didn’t get any closeup images. However, Rob Strauss managed to catch this image of a juvenile above the ice. Rob also provided the image of Indian Point above.

Juvenile eagle flying north - freight train in background
Juvenile eagle flying north – freight train in background

The weather turned colder again last week and ice floes were on the Hudson within the NYC boundaries. Consequently, last Sunday I took advantage of a free eagle-watching walking tour run by the Urban Park Rangers. From the meeting point at Payson Park House in Inwood Hill Park (northern tip of Manhattan), an easy walk from the Dyckman Street (A line) subway, it was a stroll of about 400 yards (0.4 km) to the eastern bank of the Hudson.  In total we would have walked about 2 miles (3 km).

There was a lot of ice on the river and it was neat hearing it creak and groan as floes ground together and collided forming ridges. The walk started in overcast and bitter weather but ended with a sunlit late-afternoon and great downstream views of the George Washington Bridge. We saw three adult eagles moving up and downstream. It was  discombobulating watching a bird on an ice floe chugging its way upstream with the tide when you expect the ice to float downstream on a river.

The Metro North Hudson Line
Railway bridge across the Harlem River – the NW tip of Manhattan lies in front of the bridge; beyond it is the Bronx.

Our best view was saved for last when a bird sitting at the ice-edge took off from the ice-edge (image below courtesy of my point and shoot camera) and treated us to a great display of flying.

Eagle at edge of ice - 26 January 2014
Bald Eagle at ice-edge – from Inwood Hill Park

For much, much better shots of Bald Eagles check out http://www.nycgovparks.org/common_images/events/full/52bc7b40eade8.jpg for an eagle in flight and http://www.calvorn.com for eagles on floes.

I’d highly recommend the next eagle watching tour on 22 February: http://www.nycgovparks.org/events/2014/02/22/birding-eagles.

I got to meet a good group of people  and our ranger (apologies I remember faces for years but names are a bit more hit and miss) was friendly, helpful and passionate about his subject on a frigid day.

Bear in mind sightings are not guaranteed; because eagles may be some distance from shore take the best binoculars you can get hold of; the ranger had a couple of spare pairs on our walk.

*The lower half of the Hudson River, which flows 315 miles south from upstate New York, to the Battery at the southern tip of Manhattan, is a tidal estuary. Consequently, in the lower reaches two  high and two low tides are experienced over twenty-four hours; with a rising tide a flood current flows northward; with a falling one an ebb current flows seaward.

Last week I travelled from Queens to Ireland for $US 5.00!

Standing Stone, Irish Hunger Memorial, Battery Park City, NYC
Standing Stone, Irish Hunger Memorial, Battery Park City, NYC

That’s the price of a return subway fare.

OK so I didn’t actually leave New York City but by visiting the Irish Hunger (also known as The Great Irish Famine or, particularly outside Ireland, the Irish Potato Famine) Memorial in the Battery Park City neighbourhood at the southwestern tip of Manhattan you are literally stepping onto a piece of Ireland.

 

Looking east along Vesey Street toward One World Trade Center
Looking east along Vesey Street toward One World Trade Center

Dwarfed by the surrounding buildings the landscaped plot uses stones brought in from each of Ireland’s counties, along with soil, and native vegetation from Ireland’s western coast. You’ll also see the ruins of an authentic Hunger-era cottage from County Mayo.

 

 

 

Reconstructed 19th century cottage
Reconstructed 19th century cottage

The ruined cottage on the plot reminded me of the abandoned buildings I  came across with my brother Mike when we hiked the moors and fells of Northern England, Scotland and Eire many moons ago.  These dwellings and other ruins always seemed to exude a certain poignancy that made us wonder why they had been abandoned.

The Memorial plot cantilevered above a Citi Bike docking. station.
The Memorial plot cantilevered above a Citi Bike docking. station.

The plot on which the cottage, winding path, and standing stones, are found is cantilevered above the sidewalk. This means that you might walk past it without realising what lies above your head.

Entrance tunnel to the memorial.
Entrance tunnel to the memorial.

When you visit you’ll enter from street-level via a limestone tunnel. The tunnel walls are covered in writings related to the Hunger. Take your time, read and reflect on them to get some appreciation of the context of the Hunger that claimed over a million people between 1845 and 1852. Approximately two million immigrated to the US between 1845 and 1860. Many settled in New York City, which  today has the largest number of Irish-Americans of any city in the US.

The ships that carried Irish immigrants escaping the Hunger were referred to as ‘coffin ships’. Conditions on board were crowded and disease-ridden. Owners provided little food, water or living space. It was said that sharks could be seen following the ships because so many bodies were thrown overboard. Mortality rates of 30% were common.

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The sculpture “Arrival” celebrating the contribution of the Irish diaspora to societies around the world
The Irish National Famine Monument at Murrisk, County Mayo. This image is the property of Pamela Norrington. Link: https://ssl.panoramio.com/photo/4888725

Sculptures of the ships commemorate immigrants departing Ireland and arriving in the US. In the Sculpture Garden of the United Nations  on First Avenue in Midtown Manhattan there is a 26-by-24-foot (8m-by-7m) bronze sculpture by Dublin-born sculptor John Behan entitled ‘Arrival’, which I’ve visited on more than one occasion.

The sculpture  celebrates the Irish who traveled the world in search of a new life, the nations and countries that offered them a chance for a better life, and the contribution the Irish diaspora has made to societies throughout the world. Irish immigrants are depicted disembarking from a coffin ship along two gangplanks.

‘Arrival’ is a variation on Behan’s ‘Coffin Ship’, the National Famine Memorial at Murrisk, County Mayo, on the West Coast of Ireland. Mary Robinson, then the Irish President, unveiled the ‘Coffin Ship’ in 1997 for the 150th anniversary of the Irish Famine. The sculpture in Ireland, rather than celebrating the safe arrival of immigrants, conjures up the horror of the coffin ships through the symbolic representation of the ship’s rigging by skeletons and bones.

Visiting the Hunger Memorial in Battery Park City reminds you of the opportunities New York City  offered the desperate Irish immigrants. It continues to be a place for new beginnings for millions of immigrants from all over the world. In return they contribute to the city’s amazing cultural diversity, economic activity (nearly one-third in 2011), and workforce (44 per cent in 2011).

Footnote: I am currently checking out what opportunities there are for visitors to the UN complex to visit the Sculpture Garden. I’ll post any details once I get them.

 

 

 

Central Park – pets remembered at Christmas, owls and tobogganing

You may think that Central Park wouldn’t have much to offer in the depths of a cold winter. My experience is otherwise.

I first discovered Central Park on a frigid Sunday morning in January 2011 when I ventured out to join a birdwatching tour. I had arrived in Astoria in Queens a month before and figured that birdwatching might provide a good way of meeting people. At the same time I would be resurrecting an interest I developed as a kid in the UK but which had been pretty much dormant for 20 or so years.

The Secret Christmas Pets Memorial Tree

I was blown away by the variety of bird species I saw in freezing temperatures   – over 280 species have been recorded in the Park – and the beauty of the Park blanketed by snow and ice.

The Park has since become my regular sanctuary in the heart of Manhattan . It is a masterpiece of design with miles of paths, amazing trees, geology,  summer theatre and concerts – the list goes on.

Though I have spent a lot of time exploring the Park over the years, I continue to make new discoveries. A couple of weeks back I was walking in the Ramble, a woodland with a maze of winding pathways, great bird life and the odd raccoon, when I came across a Christmas tree decorated with mementos, ornaments and photos of departed pets.

Having grown up with two much-loved dogs I really connected with the sentiments expressed in the messages – reminiscing was a slightly sad but overall uplifting experience. What a great tradition! For more on the ‘secret’ Holiday Pets Memorial Tree see http://www.examiner.com/article/hidden-christmas-tree-central-park-memorializes-cherished-pets and http://rudedogs.wordpress.com/2007/12/17/december-16-2007-the-holiday-pets-memorial-tree/

Last Saturday (4th January) I took myself off to the Park for a walk and some birdwatching, though  temperatures  well below freezing were forecast.

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Tobogganing in Central Park, 4th January 2014. Note the dads standing in front of the tree trunks to prevent their kids smashing into them.

It was a beautiful blue sky day. Despite the cold, the snow was sparkling and folk were enjoying the sunshine, cross-country skiing, dog walking and tobogganing.

Carving Bethesda Terrace - Owl - resized
Stone carving of an owl, Bethesda Terrace area

It turned out to be a great day for birding. The walk began with an early and excellent view of a Long-eared Owl roosting in a pine tree. To cap the walk off I came across a whimsical carving of an owl among other beautiful carvings in the Bethesda Terrace area.

All in all it was a great day and a reminder that the Park is a great place in which to spend time year round. If you like things a little quieter there are far fewer people around in winter than in the peak tourist season.

Restrooms and eateries remain open and you can always grab a snack from the many food carts set up along the popular walking paths. Just  make sure you rug up accordingly.

Food cart near the Mall in Central Park
Food cart near the Mall in Central Park

An introduction

Hi

I’m Nev and this is my first foray into the world of blogging. I’m originally from the UK, married to a New Zealander, and living in New York, a city that we have fallen in love with.

I’ve decided to blog because I have a real passion for exploring the city, uncovering surprises, warts and all, and sharing my experiences  and knowledge with others. I’ve already extended this passion to offering guided Central Park walks through Vayable – check out the link: http://www.vayable.com/experiences/7372-immerse-yourself-in-central-park.

I intend my posts to provide useful, interesting and entertaining information for New Yorkers and visitors looking for out of the way places; quirky, hidden histories;  lesser-known viewing points; and cheap options for getting the most from the city.

The ABOUT ME page provides, you’ve guessed it, a bit more  about me. I’m really looking forward to developing this blog and hope you stick with me as I develop its layout and my writing style.